The big, puffy fried dough had long been a staple of Provincetown’s Portuguese Bakery, but with the pandemic in 2020 and new owners taking control of the shop in 2021, several years had passed since I had the delicious treat. That all changed over Memorial Day weekend this year.

The farmers market in McGolrick Park had a new vendor: Kimchi Kooks. The shop offered more than the usual cabbage kimchi, so I obviously had to sample some.