Cozy Soup ‘n Burger closed last month after 54 years.

Jason Diamond, who co-wrote New York Nico’s Guide to NYC, lamented in New York Magazine:

“It wasn’t a culinary landmark — though you likely won’t find such perfect split-pea soup and thick-cut French fries anywhere else in the surrounding Zip Codes — and it never tried to rise above its humble station. The mood in the world being what it is, losing a place quite literally called cozy feels almost too on the nose.”

The diner opened in 1972, founded by Greek immigrants Mike and George Stratidis. Manager John Stratidis, Mike’ son, began his career at age nine. It was a family business, and John’s grandfather, also John, worked there too.

Stratidis isn’t without controversy though. He railed against paying higher wages to workers back in 2021, threatening a $50 hamburger and blaming Joe Biden. The shops burgers are currently about $25 online, or $16 to $20 in-person.

However, like so many restaurants in New York City, the pandemic hurt the diner. It was closed for five months. Once operating 24 hours a day, it now closes in the early evening. Rising prices haven’t helped either, and while the diner does a brisk take out business, the apps have made the food more expensive for anyone who isn’t willing to walk over to get it themselves.

I’ll admit to having walked by the diner for years without ever having eaten there. Located on Broadway just off of Astor place, I would end up walking past it coming and going from Union Square, but always on my way someplace else.

All that changed last year when my friend Matt Caputo dragged me there for lunch. We had tried to head over there one last time before the closing of the diner, but alas our schedules didn’t work out.

So let’s reflect on my first, and only visit, to this iconic diner last year.

I had to start with soup. It’s literally in the name. Plus I always want a matzo ball soup. This was interesting because the soup included fettuccine or similar noodles. Overall this was a good soup, even with all the carbs.

Now I realize burger is in the name, but its hard to pass up Reuben sandwiches. I do feel like it has become the sandwich to judge a diner by. This was a perfectly passable version of one. Maybe I should have gotten the burger, like Matt did.

The thing I noticed is that while the restaurant wasn’t particularly busy at lunch time, a crowd of tourists was ushered in by a tour guide. They all took up a space at the counter, and the servers brought them out a small serving of soup. I assume this was all prearranged and totally ordinary for the restaurant because nobody seemed flustered by a dozen tourists showing up – except for the fact that they crowded close to us in a nearly empty restaurant.

The presence of the tour group makes me think Cozy Soup N Burger was not having the best year, financially speaking.

Any time classic diners shut down, we lose some part of our history. Cozy Soup N Burger surely was part of that story, though less for me. I ate there just once, near the end. But I still mourn the loss. I will still see the absence.

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